Chronotherm Iv Plus Connection

Wednesday, February 25, 2009

Chronotherm Iv Plus Connection

Clone - Clone Reloaded reloaded

last Sunday while playing with my new coach neglected the PICkit 2 clone had done last month and is a cable that fell with toed which was used to click on the breadboard.

was then that I hear on the pc the famous "TURU" (the USB has been disconnected, he spent pickit2 ?...), when I look at the lights off, the hot pic and a shorting cable almost all transistors and resistors he could, I could only $*($&@#(*@(#)!!# of anger, but it was Later, the pic is saved but the majority of transistors died and my pc was saved by chance ...

Well after this story, I got into his head that I will not repair the transistors, reviewing the circuit again, etc ... So I designed from scratch a new version.

This new version reloaded PICkit 2 clone has no sockets for reports and that truth is not found practical use them, I removed the voltage verification and brought me more problems than solutions (mean bad, posters pulled each time, etc.).

Another important aspect that this development was the isolation factor and portability, as it come and go safely among the PICKIT in the backpack full of things ... ultimately nothing endures ... Testing

breadboard design of the new PICkit 2 clone reloaded

necessary components

For PCB

-030X050 C025 100nF C1 C2 47uf 25v
E2-5
C3 C025-030X050
100nF C4 47uf 25v
C5 E2-5 E2-5 50v 10uF C8

15PF C025-030X050 C025-030X050 15PF C9 D1
1N4148 DO35-10 D2 1N4148 DO35-10

IC1 PIC18F2550_28DIP DIL28-3 L1 680uH 0207/10
LED1 Red LED5MM
LED2 Green LED5MM Q1 BC548 TO92-EBC Q2 20MHZ HC49/S
Q3 BC548 TO92-EBC Q4 BC548 TO92-EBC

Q5 BC557 TO92-EBC R1 33 0207/10
R2 33 0207/10
R3 33 0207/10 R4 4k7 0207/10 R5 470 0207/10
R6 470 0207/10
R7 1k 0207/10
R8 4k7 0207/10
R9 2k7 0207/10
R10 100k 0207/10
R11 10k 0207/10
R12 100 0207/10
R13 10k 0207/10
R14 10k 0207/10
S3 9077-2 9077-2 switch
SV3 ICSP ML10 con-harting-ml
X3 MINI-USB_SHIELD4P-85-32004-00X 85-32004-00X to-cypressindustries

FR4 or FR5 Board (fiberglass), ferric chloride (or whatever you like), alcohol, fine wool, saw, welder, etc.

Cabinet

Well, given these conditions I thought of a good insulator, resistant, easy to use, then I thought of acrylic (polymethylmethacrylate) these are the features:

* Transparency of around 92%. The most transparent plastics.
* High impact resistance, about 10 to 20 times that of glass.
* Weatherproof and UV. There is no appreciable aging in 10 years of exposure abroad.
* Excellent thermal and acoustic insulation.
Lightweight compared to glass (about half), with a density of about 1190 kg/m3 is only slightly heavier than water.
* De hardness similar to that of aluminum: scratches easily with any metal object such as a clip. * Easy
combustion, does not turn off when removed from heat. Its gases have a fruity smell and crackle when burned. Not produce any toxic gases on burning so we can consider it a very safe product to people next items like wood.
* Greater ease of machining and molding.
* It is sold in rectangular plates from 2 and 120 mm thick. There with varying degrees of resistance (in a dozen different qualities) and many colors. Its surface is protected with a polyethylene film to prevent scratches when handling.
* Can be machined cold but not bend. (Sawing, grinding, stabbed, polishing, etc..), Will apply local heat (to fold) or heating the entire piece. The latter is a complex industrial process that requires specialized machinery and molds.
* The acrylic has a great resistance to attack by many compounds but is attacked by others, including: ethyl acetate, acetone, glacial acetic acid, sulfuric acid dichromate, amyl alcohol, benzene, butanol, dichloromethane, trichloromethane (chloroform), toluene.

Measures thought to the PCB were approximately 75x50 mm ...

These are the things needed for the cabinet:

2 80x60 mm acrylic plates. 1 lathe or drill bits 2mm and 5mm 4 screws 2mm 2mm

12 nuts 2 carries a piece LEDs
1 infinite patience ...
In my case the service requested a trade to provide me with precise cuts 80x60.

Then you need to cut fiber board - carefully - I used the scroll saw black & decker high speed steel blade

's no B & D. Prepared

plate

Then clean with metal cleaner, next step wash with alcohol and water. It should be something like:

Print PCB can be downloaded from this blog and put it against the copper uniting with ribbons.

Toner Transfer Press for 5 minutes at the proper temperature to a common clothes iron (no steam or water). Remove
surplus and check the papers thoroughly tracks

Then go through the acid attack - about 15 minutes or less depending on what Old ferric chloride or the attacker -.

Soldering flux tracks first and then placing the tip of soldering tin with a little cross the tracks by removing the excess with the tape and it would be our PCB ready for the drill and components ...

Let the cabinet now, we superimpose a measurement or the PCB printing each plate and draw on the protection of acrylic points a 2mm drill bit to the sides and 5mm LEDs and push button.